Author Topic: Problem by HouseCode? It used to work!  (Read 9907 times)

Jeff

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Re: Problem by HouseCode? It used to work!
« Reply #15 on: September 17, 2013, 09:01:05 PM »
After almost 3 hours of fielding customer questions, I'm probably more confused than before.

First, I'm confused why a new UPS battery would cause a problem, and I don't understand why changing the house code in the dining room from N to J would have reduced the noise problem because J has an even more regular bit pattern than N.  But I guess this was solved by placing the UPS on a filter.

OK:

AC line -> FilterLinc (pass through) -> M2 lamp module (does not work)

Also M2 lamp module does not work when connected through an extension cord to other outlets.

When you say the lamp stayed in the same state, I assume you mean the M2 lamp module did not respond to powerline commands.

Your keyfob and PalmPad would not control M2, but the PalmPad would control J lights when set to housecode J.  So the PalmPad is working.

There seems to be two issues here.  One is that the PalmPad dimmer does not control the M2 GUI dimmer, but it does toggle the switch on and off.  I don't recall whether you confirmed the module is set to the old type in AHP.  So that might be a factor.

The other is that the module does not respond at all.  Have you spun the code wheels around a few times.  Sometimes they do not make good contact.  You could be sending M2 codes just fine, but the module might be looking for another code.  I even had a few of the code wheel switches actually break in the older BSR modules.

You never confirmed what housecode the RR501 was set to.  Was that on M?  Is the CM15A also set to transceive M?  If so, there might be a conflict, particularly on dimmer commands.

It seems like there is a lot of stuff that is still undefined.  I would like to know what transceivers are active, and what housecodes they are handling.  What you are using for a repeater or coupler?  Also, do any of your neighbors possibly have an X10 system?

BTW, I will be gone tomorrow, but will check back again tomorrow night.

Jeff
X10 automation since the BSR days...

Barry_IA

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Re: Problem by HouseCode? It used to work!
« Reply #16 on: September 18, 2013, 07:22:40 AM »
After almost 3 hours of fielding customer questions, I'm probably more confused than before.
First, I'm confused why a new UPS battery would cause a problem, and I don't understand why changing the house code in the dining room from N to J would have reduced the noise problem because J has an even more regular bit pattern than N.  But I guess this was solved by placing the UPS on a filter.

I've no idea why replacing the battery in the UPS would cause a problem either, unless had something due to electrical noise created by the charging, but would seem that should stop or at least be greatly minimized when the battery became charged.  And IIRC the old battery was 9 AH and the replacement 8.5 AH.  Plugging the UPS into a different circuit 'fixed' the problem, created another with the trip hazard of the orange extension cord temporarily! <g>  The filter solved that problem.


I'm going to try cutting and pasting the quote/end quote commands for in-line responses....
OK:

AC line -> FilterLinc (pass through) -> M2 lamp module (does not work)

Also M2 lamp module does not work when connected through an extension cord to other outlets.

When you say the lamp stayed in the same state, I assume you mean the M2 lamp module did not respond to powerline commands.

Your keyfob and PalmPad would not control M2, but the PalmPad would control J lights when set to housecode J.  So the PalmPad is working.

Correct on  the above.   The keyfob and PalmPad also no longer controls the M1 Appliance Modules to the outside pumps.  (Still the "M" Housecode.)




There seems to be two issues here.  One is that the PalmPad dimmer does not control the M2 GUI dimmer, but it does toggle the switch on and off.  I don't recall whether you confirmed the module is set to the old type in AHP.  So that might be a factor.

The AHP software is set for the old (non softstart) type of module.  In the testing up here inthe Computer Room where I am using the P Housecode tested using both the old and new (non-softstart, softstart) with the two types of controllers (one at a time: one plugged in to the outlet at a time!) ran into the same results as with the M Housecode:  both the keyfob and PalmPad will only change the (on-screen) switch state -- on or off, but would not change the dimmer state.  Oddly setting the test devices to "J" everything works as it should!  (Starting to wonder if there's a problem with Housecodes B, M and P!  Someone did mention a hardware issue with M and with P16.



The other is that the module does not respond at all.  Have you spun the code wheels around a few times.  Sometimes they do not make good contact.  You could be sending M2 codes just fine, but the module might be looking for another code.  I even had a few of the code wheel switches actually break in the older BSR modules.

Yes, have swept the contacts.  I'm thinking that's not the problem as the software will on/off/dim the light just fine.  So the problem seems to be in the RF/wireless portion rather than wired. 



You never confirmed what housecode the RR501 was set to.  Was that on M?  Is the CM15A also set to transceive M?  If so, there might be a conflict, particularly on dimmer commands.

Oh <bleep!>  The RR501 transceiver module was set to N -- the general Housecode (the ones used for 90% of the house lighting).  The RR501 used to 'click' when M1 was turned on or off, both by the software and the keyfob; hasn't for some time (month or two? longer?).  Umm, the RR501 is now out of the picture as I accidentally broke it when going inside on a suggestion a component failed.  There is a smoke trace originating at the lower left when looking at the module from the front.  None of the components seem to show where the 'smoke was let out' though.



It seems like there is a lot of stuff that is still undefined.  I would like to know what transceivers are active, and what housecodes they are handling.  What you are using for a repeater or coupler?  Also, do any of your neighbors possibly have an X10 system?
BTW, I will be gone tomorrow, but will check back again tomorrow night.

OK - get over the headache I gave you! <g>

Using the USB Interface (CM19A); a phase coupler at the service panel (SmartHome Hardwired SignaLinc 4816H), a alarm thing -- should have gotten that number!

Living Room       N1
Dining Room      J2/J3 -- used to be N2  these lights were acting wacky, apparently due to the UPS.  FilterLinc 1626 fixed.  Need to move back to N.
Sitting Room      N3
K Bkcs/LR crnr    N4
Hallway              N5
K Pantry             N6

Kitchen table      Originally M2 -- this is the one we're talking about.

Fountain/Pond   M1

Mailbox             O15
Nightlight          O16

I will probably 'move' the Dining Room back to N2 -- not sure where to move J3 to right now.  As J seems to be working will probably try moving the Kitchen Light (M2) to J2 as the test configuration up here seems to work.  ...So do you prefer Aleve over Tynelol, or generic aspirin just fine?!

Barry_IA

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Re: Problem by HouseCode? It used to work!
« Reply #17 on: September 18, 2013, 04:20:49 PM »
Later that same day....

Appears we are making some progress as to what the problem is.  'Moved" the Dining Room wall switch from J2 to where it belongs as N2 (N is the general housecode).  Before 'moving' reprogrammed the keyfob to J1/J2 and the PalmPad to J.  Worked as it should: on/off and dim.  The test setup up here in the Computer Room also worked as it should.

As the X10 security system controls some lighting had changed that some time back to J so the Dining Room lights would come on with the security keyfobs, and with exiting.  Switch the alarm base back to N.  The alarm keyfobs turn on/off the Dining Room lights (N2) as it should.

Tested the test setup (J2).  It's back to on/off but no dim control!  <mumble-grumble>  ...<head clears of smoke>  Antenna!  The probably-failed RR501 has an antenna, the alarm base has an antenna.  The wireless controllers need an antenna.  There is an antenna on the USB Interface up here but that ....

OK, just found something!  RF needs antenna (duh!).  The Hardware Configuration Panel (Tools > Hardware Configuration) has Transceived Housecode options:  "None", "Auto", and "Specific".  Mine was set for "Specific" and "N".  selecting "Auto" automatically populated with J, M, N, O. P (all in use here).  <Update Interface> to set that parameter.  Now the keyfob and the PalmPad work!!  Goes on, goes off, dim!!  Woo-hoo!  Now to test if the RF signal will work between downstairs and up here!

Jeff

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Re: Problem by HouseCode? It used to work!
« Reply #18 on: September 18, 2013, 08:41:13 PM »
Jeepers, I thought replied to this earlier today, but I guess I didn't hit Post before killing the window.

Rather than recreate that message, I'll just say that it looks like you are well on the way to solving the problem.

I don't know about the RF sensitivity of the CM19A, but the CM15A has a reputation for relatively poor range.  So you might need another transceiver to cover both floors if you have a large home.

Jeff
X10 automation since the BSR days...

Barry_IA

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Re: Problem by HouseCode? It used to work!
« Reply #19 on: September 19, 2013, 05:51:27 PM »
Jeepers, I thought replied to this earlier today, but I guess I didn't hit Post before killing the window.

Select best answer:
(a) Hate when that happens!
(b) Been there, done that got the <prize>!


Rather than recreate that message, I'll just say that it looks like you are well on the way to solving the problem.
I don't know about the RF sensitivity of the CM19A, but the CM15A has a reputation for relatively poor range.  So you might need another transceiver to cover both floors if you have a large home.

I had tested using the 'real' PalmPad we keep on the microwave downstairs and it did turn on the test light up here - -yea!!  OTOH I have the feeling you just might be right: in the past several years had had problems with manually adjusting some lights ==> grumble and try a different remote, though all set for N, which was the original 'selective' configuration for the transceivers: CM19A (think that's the USB interface I have up here) and the RR501 int he first floor Dining Room.  ...Almost surprised the M1 (outside fountain pump & decorative pond) and the kitchen table light worked at all base don what I've been reading trying to figure out what got screwed up!!

Any considerations on the V572A?  Three-quarters thinking of spending the $15 extra dollars are going with the 32-bit version.  For some reason have a PowerLinc 1132 (no suffix!) and CM11A; both are serial devices and will hopefully work.

Jeff

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Re: Problem by HouseCode? It used to work!
« Reply #20 on: September 19, 2013, 06:13:16 PM »
The PowerLinc 1132 is supposed to emulate the TW523, and should work with the V572A.  The CM11A has a RS232 serial interface, and will not work with the V572A.

I know folks who are using the WGL W800 USB transceiver with HomeVision, but maybe someone else could report on how it would integrate with AHP.

Jeff
X10 automation since the BSR days...

Barry_IA

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Re: Problem by HouseCode? It used to work!
« Reply #21 on: September 20, 2013, 08:32:12 AM »
The PowerLinc 1132 is supposed to emulate the TW523, and should work with the V572A.  The CM11A has a RS232 serial interface, and will not work with the V572A.

OK, thanks for the feedback Jeff!  Obviously trying to save a dollar or two here and use what I have.  No recollection why I have those two devices -- possibly a "buy this get this" deal from who knows when!

Barry_IA

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Re: Problem by HouseCode? It used to work!
« Reply #22 on: September 21, 2013, 05:11:43 PM »
OK, I think I can mark this thread as SOLVED!  Appears I had several problems, probably started by the failure of the RR501 transceiver.  (Though it was set to N and M stopped working.)  It seems I didn't need the RR501 except I had the AHP software set to monitor only the N housecode; by reconfiguring to AUTO my USB Interface now sees to work for the various housecodes I am using here. I still may need something like the V572A to extend my ranges of the various remotes.

Thanks for the inputs/replies!  "It gets interesting" trying to explain something when one isn't quite sure what is going on; even more so trying to figure out what the problem could be!  Now on to a different problem!  <Jeff bangs head!><g>