After almost 3 hours of fielding customer questions, I'm probably more confused than before.
First, I'm confused why a new UPS battery would cause a problem, and I don't understand why changing the house code in the dining room from N to J would have reduced the noise problem because J has an even more regular bit pattern than N. But I guess this was solved by placing the UPS on a filter.
I've no idea why replacing the battery in the UPS would cause a problem either, unless had something due to electrical noise created by the charging, but would seem that should stop or at least be greatly minimized when the battery became charged. And IIRC the old battery was 9 AH and the replacement 8.5 AH. Plugging the UPS into a different circuit 'fixed' the problem, created another with the trip hazard of the orange extension cord temporarily! <g> The filter solved that problem.
I'm going to try cutting and pasting the quote/end quote commands for in-line responses....
AC line -> FilterLinc (pass through) -> M2 lamp module (does not work)
Also M2 lamp module does not work when connected through an extension cord to other outlets.
When you say the lamp stayed in the same state, I assume you mean the M2 lamp module did not respond to powerline commands.
Your keyfob and PalmPad would not control M2, but the PalmPad would control J lights when set to housecode J. So the PalmPad is working.
Correct on the above. The keyfob and PalmPad also no longer controls the M1 Appliance Modules to the outside pumps. (Still the "M" Housecode.)
There seems to be two issues here. One is that the PalmPad dimmer does not control the M2 GUI dimmer, but it does toggle the switch on and off. I don't recall whether you confirmed the module is set to the old type in AHP. So that might be a factor.
The AHP software is set for the old (non softstart) type of module. In the testing up here inthe Computer Room where I am using the P Housecode tested using both the old and new (non-softstart, softstart) with the two types of controllers (one at a time: one plugged in to the outlet at a time!) ran into the same results as with the M Housecode: both the keyfob and PalmPad will only change the (on-screen) switch state -- on or off, but would not change the dimmer state. Oddly setting the test devices to "J" everything works as it should! (Starting to wonder if there's a problem with Housecodes B, M and P! Someone did mention a hardware issue with M and with P16.
The other is that the module does not respond at all. Have you spun the code wheels around a few times. Sometimes they do not make good contact. You could be sending M2 codes just fine, but the module might be looking for another code. I even had a few of the code wheel switches actually break in the older BSR modules.
Yes, have swept the contacts. I'm thinking that's not the problem as the software will on/off/dim the light just fine. So the problem seems to be in the RF/wireless portion rather than wired.
You never confirmed what housecode the RR501 was set to. Was that on M? Is the CM15A also set to transceive M? If so, there might be a conflict, particularly on dimmer commands.
Oh <bleep!> The RR501 transceiver module was set to N -- the general Housecode (the ones used for 90% of the house lighting). The RR501 used to 'click' when M1 was turned on or off, both by the software and the keyfob; hasn't for some time (month or two? longer?). Umm, the RR501 is now out of the picture as I accidentally broke it when going inside on a suggestion a component failed. There is a smoke trace originating at the lower left when looking at the module from the front. None of the components seem to show where the 'smoke was let out' though.
It seems like there is a lot of stuff that is still undefined. I would like to know what transceivers are active, and what housecodes they are handling. What you are using for a repeater or coupler? Also, do any of your neighbors possibly have an X10 system?
BTW, I will be gone tomorrow, but will check back again tomorrow night.
OK - get over the headache I gave you! <g>
Using the USB Interface (CM19A); a phase coupler at the service panel (SmartHome Hardwired SignaLinc 4816H), a alarm thing -- should have gotten that number!
Living Room N1
Dining Room J2/J3 -- used to be N2 these lights were acting wacky, apparently due to the UPS. FilterLinc 1626 fixed. Need to move back to N.
Sitting Room N3
K Bkcs/LR crnr N4
K Pantry N6
Kitchen table Originally M2 -- this is the one we're talking about.
I will probably 'move' the Dining Room back to N2 -- not sure where to move J3 to right now. As J seems to be working will probably try moving the Kitchen Light (M2) to J2 as the test configuration up here seems to work. ...So do you prefer Aleve over Tynelol, or generic aspirin just fine?!